Filmed in the ancient Epping Forest, with oaks and hornbeams by way of a front row, Erdem’s SS21 collection is inspired by a 1992 romantic novel by Susan Sontag, The Volcano Lover. Set in the royal court of 18th century Naples, it depicts the love triangle between Emma Hamilton, her husband the British consul Sir William Hamilton, and Horatio Nelson, in the shadow of Vesuvius.
The collection itself is named ‘In the Shadow of the Volcano’ and obviously resonates with all of us in the current pandemic situation, where future is anything but uncertain and casts a massive shadow over our heads. Yet life erupts.
The silhouettes are very elegant and sophisticated, with dresses made of sheer embroidered organza and muslin, or beautiful floral jacquard. Long and fluid, they feature empire waists, puff sleeves and military-like floating grosgrain ribbons on the shoulders or the waist, sometimes looking like straps of a backpack as if these women were ready to escape any time. Satin platform shoes, ecru neckerchiefs and Grecian headbands complete the looks.
A stunning bright pink dress with black floral patterns made the designer say: “When it feels like the end of the world, doesn’t someone need a pink moiré hand-embroidered gown?” That’s a big yes.