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London Fashion Week Men's SS19

The 12th edition of London Fashion Week Men’s took place last weekend for the Spring/Summer 2019 collections, showcasing the best of British menswear design, with catwalk shows, presentations and the Designer Showrooms. This season focused on the diversity and ever-expanding creativity of the capital, starting with ICEBERG, who presented their catwalk show on Friday.
Designer James Long moved the label from Milan to London for the first time. The SS19 collection ambitioned to go back to the roots of the brand, offering a sporty silhouette with both a technical and a luxurious touch. Among other reminiscences from ICEBERG’s archives, the cartoon characters – initially introduced by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who was the brand’s first creative director – such as Snoopy and Charlie Brown.

On Saturday, highlights included John Lawrence Sullivan’s collection,  inspired by the Swiss punk movement and Depeche Mode.

Oliver Spencer’s SS19 silhouettes were really about a weekend on the countryside and the adorning power of flowers. A lovely retro touch all over, for a beautiful collection.

Sunday started with the presentation of Phoebe English’s collection at the BFC show space, with both menswear and womenswear. The men’s silhouette were extremely simple but powerful, with monochrome workwear-like garments.

Xander Zhou transported us into a different dimension at the Southbank Centre, where men show off their pregnancy bumps or countless arms. Entitled ‘Supernatural, Extraterrestrial & Co., it was pretty much the case. Beyond the narrative, a very technical and innovative collection.

Christopher Raeburn’s React Now collection was heavily applauded, focussing once again on climate change and environment. The iconic giant panda, no longer endangered, is this season’s mascot and features on different pieces. Some garments also feature imagery from NASA, such as melting glaciers.

Micho Koshino was a breath of (tropical) fresh air and exuberance straight out of Hawaiian paradise, with plenty of beautiful flowers and neon hues.

Kiko Kostadinov’s SS19 collection was about workwear, although quite nomadic, taking inspiration from The Happy End of Franz Kafka’s ‘Amerika’ — an installation piece by Martin Kippenberger that paints a “fictional utopia of universal employment.”

Monday saw the shows of Astrid Andersen, who presented a muted collection in earthy tones from beige and greys to reds, and What We Wear’s first anniversary , which was a celebration of football culture with a 90’s sportswear vibe.

What do you think?

Written by Laurie Guillem

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