Since 2013, the Creative Director Glenn Martens is leading the men and womenswear pf the Parisian based label Y/PROJECT . Originating from Bruges, Belgium, Glenn Martens graduated first in his class from the internationally acclaimed fashion institute The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp. After being recruited to join the team of Jean-Paul Gaultier in 2008 for the women’s pre-collection in addition to men’s label “G2”, Martens made his way in the fashion world as the first assistant to independent designer Yohan Serfaty.
Martens worked also independently on various high-profile projects affiliated with European brands such as Weekday (H&M) and Honest By Bruno Pieters. In February 2012, he launched his Womenswear line during the Paris Fashion Week under the name “Glenn Martens”.
Y/PROJECT is a brand which appeals to individuals who have a strong eye for detail and an appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship. Known for its distinctive cuts and leather treatments, Y/PROJECT proposes a complete silhouette that embodies an emotional atmosphere, inner strength and rugged masculinity adapted to an urban lifestyle. Glenn Martens keeps the brand’s heritage for his Spring/Summer 2017 Collection with graphic tailoring woven into sctructural elegance characterizing the new designes of Y/PROJECT. As the creations show an important technical background, the atmosphere is still emotional and culminates with the architectural curts that boast the comfortable fit.
This year, Y/PROJECT presented its collection on Maxim’s Peniche on the Seine River to the sound of dub reggae and jam music. As we have understood, this year “duality” is a keyword in Fashion. With a romantic twist and an eclectic mix of 90’s tuxedos, denim and flowers, Glenn Martens offers a collection toned in a color palette of pastels and washed denims. Takig his inspirations from pirates, Island vibes, or memorable movies from the 1990’s such as Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels or Las Vegas Parano, the Creative Director chose to create unexpected silhouette. The materials like moiré both on trackpants and tuxedos higlighted with cufflink details throughout the collection on jeans and trousers creating an innovative contemporary multi-cultural look both tough and romantic.
The keypieces of the show are the impressive moiré trackpants and tuxedos which give this ultra-Nineties look, as well as the double-button jeans. The spray painted denim suits are also really interesting pieces by their cuts and technicity, the transparent tulle tops with encased pressed silk flowers are breaking the overall strong silhouette as the oversized cable sweaters handmade in Normandy are matching with the “duality” theme by their pastel colors and loosy shapes.
The accessories are secondary but we can notice the Y/PROJECT logo cufflinks, woven and patent leather multi-belts combined with the pants.
Three Women outfit were also showed, and this is no surprise since Glenn Martens will is also to mix both Men and Women silhouette. An oversized black coat with a mini-dress in tulle or the flower crop-top are noticeable pieces and perfectly deliver the collection feminine version.
Y/PROJECT S/S 2017 Collection is surely redifining fashion codes on both men and women sides. Glenn Martens has managed to create a whole universe arounf his theme and brand’s heritage.