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The Event of the Métiers d'Art Paris-Salzburg Show : behing the scenes in the art studios…

Sissi and Austria are at the heart of the theme for the next Chanel Métiers Art Show. But it’s near Paris where the feather workers and embroiderers are busy behind the scenes days before the event. Sissi and Austria are at the heart of the theme for the next Chanel Métiers Art Show. But it’s near Paris where the feather workers and embroiderers are busy behind the scenes days before the event. We are immersed into the heart of the preparations to the discovery of this savoir-faire put at the forefront at the time of this exceptional show. Interviews: Hubert Barrère: I think that part of the Chanel house is like a kind of huge generosity which puts value in the métiers d’arts. And what is so exceptional is that it offers to our craftspeople who are often working in the shadows and who are suddenly taken to the front of the scene, not centre stage but on a level of importance, it’s a kind of reward. We’ve used embroidery, we’ve used sequins, pearls, which represent feathers and butterflies. And then, there are also flower garlands, fresh, and natural, then that for example, this butterfly which without knowing is made entirely in pearls and sequins, and there are feathers on it. The room for error in our job doesn’t exist. So to ensure this, the design must be extremely rigorous, so it is copied but however there are always forms of interpretation, the hand cannot be guided like that, it’s not a machine, luckily from outside, so between you, can you recognise who did what? I did this part, and you did that. From the untrained eye, you think it’s the same thing…by the same person, but not at all. Nadine Dufat : There is a coming and going between our creative team and the studio to give the samples which truly respond to what it wants. Because it’s not always evident, they have a good precise idea of what it wants so now we must translate it with feathers and with colours. In fact it’s one model, and so we have 5 people, it’s all this work that they’re working on, so firstly we have the work on the flowers, the little yellow forget-me-nots, and all the rest you will see is in process to be worked on. There is a technique on the feathers before they’re worked on, all the feathers must pass through vapour to gain back a bit of their shine, and then the feathers are worked bit by bit, one by one. This is one of the samples that we have been presented with, there is work with leather cut outs, feathers, embroidery, layered petals, and a mix of materials. Hubert Barrère: Today you have lots of people who aren’t aware that it’s a kind of work, we have a way today of trivialising things, whereas inside the work, there is poetry, a soul.

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Written by Pascal Iakovou

Kristian Aadnevik, Spring/Summer 2015, London Fashion Week

"Victoria's Secret Veterans" and "Victoria's Secret Virgins" – 2002